To find real Kölsch you'll need to go to Germany where this beer is produced, Cologne (Köln), Germany. Kölsch is an appelation just like the Champagne region of France and is strictly defined by the Kölsch Konvention, an agreement between the members of the Cologne Brewery Association in 1986. Any Kolsch brewed outside of Köln is considered to be in the Kölsch-style.
To get your hands on an authentic Kölsch you'll have to hit some bottleshops. There are only a couple of breweries that export to the U.S. You can readily find Reissdorf Kölsch and Zunft Kölsch. Reissdorf was virtually the only classic example imported to the U.S.for many years. Zunft has recently been imported by Northwest Beverage Group, Bothell, Washington and can be found troughtout the west coast. More about Zunft Kölsch in a later post with a detailed breakdown of this beer.
Kölsch is by far one of my favorite styles of beer in the world (and the devil knows I like the strong ales as well). Kölsch is a beer with a bright straw-yellow hue, and it has a prominent, but not extreme, noble hoppiness, it is highly attenuated, clear, and can be simple or complex. The yeast strain adds a flavor profile unique to this fine ale, producing light fruity esters that meld well with the light maltiness and delicate hop flavor. It is a top-fermenting beer, thus, it is an ale, but it is fermented at cooler temperatures and aged similar to lagers during cold conditioning. The Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) classifies it as a hybrid due to this. But, hands down, it is an ale.
There are challenges to finding a domestically produced Kölsch-style ale that is close to being authentic. Most are only produced seasonally for the summer months. Two that come to mind are Pyramid Curve Ball and Alaskan Summer Ale. Neither are authentic in overall profile. They are both closer to an American Blonde ale. Alaskan a couple of years dropped the Kölsch-style designation and is now sold as a Blonde ale. Perhaps ingredient changes? Maybe, but tastes exactly the same to me.
But, I have discovered (yes, discovered after much searching) two domestically produced Kölsch's over the last couple of years that are authentic as hell.
~ Wild River Brewing Harbor Lights Kölsch-style Ale out of Cave Junction, Oregon (they've expanded to Grants Pass, Ore. as well as three other locations), and Silver medal winner at the 1997 Great American Beer Festival.
~ Odin Brewing Freya's Kölsch-style Ale out of Seattle. I've enjoyed my fair share of this great beer over the last year, trust me. The website mentions a touch of ginger. Hardly detectable to me, but must add a layer of complexity that melds well with the overall presentation up front and in the finish. Crisp and clean. I love it and it's local, what are the odds!
The bottom line is that a real Kölsch is the one that is authentic in aroma, flavor, and overall expression of the style, whether from Cologne or a domestically produced Kölsch-style ale. Enjoy a Kölsch today my fellow beer head!
Cheers,
Jim Lanning
